While there always seems to be hype about Jessner’s peels they actually have been around for a long time compared to most aesthetic treatments. Even though this peel works in a similar way to all other peels it is unique in the combination of ingredients it utilizes to achieve the effect. The original formulation was developed 100 years ago but has been modified slightly based on the modern use of certain ingredients.
Original vs. Modified Jessner’s Formulation
The original Jessner’s formulation, named for the doctor who created it, was equal parts salicylic acid, resorcinol, and lactic acid in an ethanol base. Recently the resorcinol has been removed from the formulation and replaced with a small amount of citric acid. It was found that resorcinol can cause irritation and hyperpigmentation for many patients. In addition, this product is not as widely available as it was previously. The lactic acid and salicylic acid have been increased compared to the original formulation to make up for the lack of resorcinol.
What is the Jessner’s Peel Process Like?
The Jessner’s peel process is no different than most other chemical peels. The process should only be completed by a trained professional in a healthcare setting and never be performed at home. Some individuals will require prescription medications prior to or after the peel. Misuse of a peel solution can lead to serious adverse effects including excessive skin peeling. This usually occurs due to leaving the peel on for too long. A trained aesthetic professional knows how to administer a peel to minimize adverse effects and produce the best results with post-peel care.
First, the practitioner will cleanse the skin thoroughly and then dry. The peel is then applied to the skin – typically over the entire face and sometimes the neck. The amount of time that the peel solution is left on the skin and the number of times the solution is applied can affect the depth of the peel. After the peel process is complete, the solution is neutralized and the skin is rinsed with water. At this point a serum may be applied to the skin as well as moisturizer. Post-peel instructions will be given including the important instruction to use sunscreen and avoiding sun exposure to the treatment area.
What Can a Jessner’s Peel Treat?
A Jessner’s peel may be used for treating acne, acne scars, fine lines and wrinkles, discolorations, and sun damaged skin. It may be used in combination with other peels to produce a deeper peel that may treat more severe acne scars. Note that for some skin conditions, multiple treatment sessions will be required to get results. These sessions will be spaced apart to allow the skin to heal.
Are There Contraindications?
Your healthcare provider will review your records to see if there is any contraindication to you using a Jessner’s peel. There are some contraindications regarding drugs you take or other skin conditions you may have. If you have used Accutane in the 6 months prior to your peel or plan to use it in the 6 months following the peel you should not have the peel done. Topicals with retinoic acid like Retin-A can interfere with a peel and make peeling more intense. These types of topicals should be discontinued during the month prior to the peel. Active skin diseases like acne or infections like cold sores would be another disqualifier from getting a peel. Women who are lactating or who are pregnant generally should hold off on getting a Jessner’s peel. When it comes to skin types, skin types I-III are usually OK to use a Jessner’s peel. However those with skin types IV-VI should proceed with caution as the peel may lead to hyperpigmentation. One last contraindication would be an allergy to any of the ingredients.
Post-Peel Care
After a peel your skin will be irritated and this is normal. You have removed layers of skin so that new, healthy, undamaged skin can grow. You will have noticeably red and irritated, peeling skin for around a week after getting your peel. Swelling, stinging, burning, itching, and a feeling of tightness may be present during this week. You should avoid touching or picking at your face while the skin heals. One of the most important instructions is to avoid sun exposure and use proper skin protection such as an SPF 30+ sunscreen. You should use SPF 30+ sunscreen daily for the entire month after your peel. You may also be instructed to avoid heat and excessive exercise that results in perspiration.
During the healing process you will be instructed to apply Aquaphor after cleansing the skin. You should gently cleanse the skin twice daily then pat dry (do not rub dry). Applying Aquaphor regularly to keep the skin moisturized. Usually by the end of a week the healing process will be complete and you will be able to wear makeup again.
Combination of Jessner’s with Other Peels
Jessner’s can be combined with other peels like TCA or glycolic acid to produce a peel that has a greater depth. Note that this is typically only done by a dermatologist familiar with the process. The Jessner’s peel can remove the top layers of skin superficially which allows the TCA or glycolic to penetrate more deeply. Some skin conditions like acne scars require a more intensive process than applying one layer of a chemical peel. The deeper peel methods can provide more dramatic results for this kind of difficult to treat skin condition.
Compounding a Jessner’s Peel
Jessner’s peels are often made by compounding pharmacies. These pharmacies are the ideal way to get this formulation as they work with combining different drug ingredients on a daily basis. Compounding pharmacies use the highest quality ingredients and have exacting standards as to how they make a peel solution. You can trust that when you obtain your chemical peel solutions from a compounding pharmacy they have been made in a controlled environment with a high degree of precision. This is important to ensure the peel is effective and safe.